Beyond the Jungle of Borneo

The tree fronds were like blinds framing a saturated jungle into which our small Klotok boat plunged head first, its engine churning like an unstoppable story into a heart of darkness. It had been 4 days since we got on the boat; myself, my guide, the boat driver and the cook and already I was beginning to feel a warm sentiment for my generous hosts who I spent late nights with watching the ephemeral dreaminess of fireflies, nibbling grilled banana and musing over our respective jungles within which we lived. The filth day would regretfully be my last.

We were in Tanjung Putting National Park on the island of Kalimantan in Indonesia on a nautical adventure searching for the orangutans for which Borneo was famed. As well as crocodiles, and panthers, and gibbons, and tarsiers, and snakes and in fact, some 50% of all living animal species which were native to Borneo. Gazing above at the canopy of intertwining vines strangling the trees while winding through the ominous waters, I felt humbled to witness the inimitable power of nature.

The orangutans were graceful, majestic creatures yet childlike and playful as they gave young shrieks and inspected the peculiarities of various toys on the forest floor, only for a Gibbon to come sweeping down in a shot from the trees, snatch it and then sit smugly above them, while the Probiscus monkeys with their drooping noses and pot bellies resembled indifferent grandparents, sitting their days away taking care of one another. But it was not until the last day that I would realize my greatest discovery would come not from this exotic soup of biodiversity but from something more familiar; humans.

Upon one of our forest treks, we got to talking about the negative effects of the palm oil industry on the biodiversity in the region and I found my guide was rather determined when it came to his opinion on the matter. He began to tell me that, for some, the work offered by the palm oil industry meant being able to put shoes on their children and send them to school. I told him that I had read that the local people were exploited by companies and it wasn’t sustainable. He stood for a moment and thought, then asked me why I had wished to come here. I said enthusiastically that I had always dreamed of exploring the jungles of Borneo. He then offered me the opportunity to explore deeper and go somewhere he didn’t normally take the visitors to which I said of course!

The last day of the expedition, we embarked upon a long 2 hour journey, deep beyond the layers of tree fronds and murky waters, along a dusty road. All along the way were fields of palm oil plantations, half constructed roads and the occasional stray dog. As we traveled further away from the exotic scenes, we got closer to a human’s habitat.

Finally in the distance I heard the sounds of young shrieking voices and scampering feet; a playground. A herd of children welcomed me. Upon signing a dusty old register, I noticed that the last visitor had visited more than 6 months ago. The teachers balked at my blonde hair and ushered me into the classroom expecting I had a wealth of expertise in English teaching, to which I met with a compelling rendition of “Heads, Shoulders, Knees and Toes”. The children applauded and praised me as if I were a celebrity, urging me to show them my camera and let them take pictures.

Their awestruck faces cast me back to my own awestruck face which gazed upon the Orangutans the day before. And as I watched the children rejoicing at the peculiarities of my camera, each waiting for their turn, I realized how beautiful they all were. My guide told me that if it weren’t for palm oil plantations, this school may not be here. I nodded at him and smiled, humbled by the children ready for a group photo.