The Essential Mongolia Travel Guide

If you’re considering a trip to Mongolia, but haven’t quite bitten the bullet and decided for sure, then I’m telling you now, go. It is one of the most unique countries I’ve been to and a lifelong unforgettable experience.

It is yet to be a mainstay destination of the budget traveler, maybe because of its lack of tourist infrastructure or because of people’s assumption that it is just dull grassland for miles. The former of these reasons are part of what makes the country and people seem so authentic and the latter is just not true. Mongolia has a boundless variety of different landscapes for all nature lovers, not least it’s wonderful steppe.

Mongolia also has desert, rolling hills, rocky mountains, grassy mountains, lakes, forest and more. And along the way are hundreds upon thousands of animals including horses, deer, camels, cows, goats, sheep, yaks, dogs, eagles and more.

So if this outdoor wonderland sounds like the place for you, then let’s get planning the trip of a life time.

How to Get to Mongolia

Plane: The best way to get into Mongolia is by plane to Chinggis Khan International airport in Ulaan Baatar. The cheapest flights will be departing from Beijing, Moscow or Seoul. Traveling into the city from the airport will take 30-45 minutes, depending on traffic.

Train: The infamous Trans-Siberia train is a very popular means of transportation, and convenient if you are planning a trip across Central Asia. If you’re short on time though, this is not the best option. It goes all the way from Moscow, across Russia and ends up in Beijing. The train station in Ulaan Baatar is very close to the city centre.

Overland: This method is going to be considerably more complicated and time consuming. Mongolia’s roads are often non-existent (80% of the roads are not paved) and it’s very difficult to navigate. If you’re looking for an adventure though and have a sturdy vehicle, then by all means give it a go.

How to Get Around the Country

This is not something I would necessarily say for most countries, but I wholeheartedly believe going with a tour operator is the best way to travel around Mongolia. Unless you are a good driver with excellent navigation skills, you are bound to either get lost or just not enjoy yourself.

If you are considering trying local buses, this will also have a negative impact on your experience because it will take you considerably longer to get places. Sometimes buses won’t even leave for hours or days until they are full up with people. Additionally they won’t stop at Ger camps or very many places of interest- only places that are linked by roads like the old capital. Most places will not be linked by roads.

If nothing else, get a private driver and take your own route. This may be ideal if you want to camp out in a tent, but would make it consistently difficult to find Ger camps/ nomadic families for accommodation.

Which Tour Operator to Choose

Personally I went with Sunpath, largely because of the amazing reviews on Trip Advisor. Fortunately, they did not disappoint and I ended up writing my own resounding review immediately after I got back. Sunpath organize amazing authentic experiences which I truly believe made my time in Mongolia as good as it could be. Our tour guide, drivers and cook were amazing funny people and always were there to meet our needs. Doljma, the manager, also speaks great English and was very kind and helpful answering any questions I had over email.

However, there are a few other options out there:

Top Tours: I stayed at their Guesthouse and all the travelers I met there said they had a great experience with them, although their guide didn’t speak perfect English.

Golden Gobi: I have also only heard good things about this tour operator and I know they offer lots of different itineraries. We might have gone with them, if they had responded to my emails.

Khongor Expedition: Also offer a variety of tours but are a smidge more expensive than the others. However, they offer a good deal on getting just a driver without an itinerary, so long as you can find a group to go with.

These options are for budget travelers but in my opinion offer a better experience than a lot of the more expensive tour operators which may provide you with nicer tourist Gers, showers and electricity. Without these things though, you have an experience more akin to the way a true nomadic family would live.

Where to Go

Gobi: The Gobi Desert is a very popular choice. Most people go for the sand dunes, but wished they’d stayed longer because of the variety of landscapes and expanse of its great open spaces.

The sand dunes are spectacular to see, spectacularly difficult to climb and wonderfully worth it to run back down as fast as you can. You can also visit Yol Valley, of luscious green scenery in summer and a completely frozen stream in winter. You’d be very lucky to see a snow leopard but more likely to spot gazelle, ibex or cute little pikas scuttering about. Then there’s the flaming cliffs which are less spectacular than the dunes I’d say but they are very picturesque during sunset and by moonlight.

The Gobi province also has its own capital, where you can find a supermarket for picking up any necessary items.

Central Mongolia: Central Mongolia offers all those amazing picturesque scenes you’ve seen in the brochures of the steppe with farm animals and the occasional Ger dotted around the place. It is a wonderful place to spend the majority of your time where you will likely go on horse treks, experience the nomadic lifestyle, meet families and spend a lot of time in nature.

Orkhon Valley is particularly serene. It takes a while to drive through it on the bumby roads but it is well worth it. You may see a lot of other Gers and tourists in the valley but the families living here really do live here and the experience is still very authentic. It also has a beautiful cascading waterfall.

Hustai National Park has beautiful steppe, but most people I met told me Orkhon Valley was more beautiful. There is also Khorgo Tuva, again not as nice, but offers scenes with rocky mountains and an adorable Buddhist temple hidden in the middle of the mountain range. Still definitely worth putting on your itinerary.

Northern Mongolia & Khuvsgul Lake: Khuvsgul Lake is the pride and joy of the Mongolian landscape. Mongolian people say it is their ocean, as they are completely landlocked. It is probably full of the most animal wildlife and beautiful scenery doesn’t even cut it out here. It’s an eden. Crystal clear water and pine tree-covered mountains. If you plan to go here, make sure you have at least 9-10 days spare. There’s a lot of land to cover.

Here you can also experience the arresting powers of shamanism and if you’re lucky witness a ritual or healing. Shamanism is still practiced across the country, along with Buddhism, but is more popular in this region.

Western Mongolia: Through the heart of Western Monglia runs the Atlai Mountains. The scenery is pretty different compared to a lot of Mongolia which is mostly plains. As it is so vast and quite far from the capital, you will find a different variety of ethnic groups here. Most famous are the Kasakhs who are known for their hunting with eagles and extreme resilience to the cold. Though you will find this latter quality born of all Mongolians who endure Winters here at -40°C.

This area is much less visited than any others because it is so far away. It would be a 4 hour flight from Ulaan Baatar or a 5 day car ride. For this reason, there will be less tourists and more wilderness! Though your guide will help you have the best experience you can, amenities may be far and few between and landmarks will be bigger distances from each other.

Eastern Mongolia: The birthplace of Chinggis Khan, Eastern Mongolia really is going deep into the vast steppe where many have never been. It’s hugeness and homogenous landscape is maybe why not many go here. Unless of course you are, like Chinggis Khan, trying to conquer the world or another nomadic herder, tending to their animals and fermenting various dairy products.

Having said that, some like the prospect of boundless space and freedom. And there are a few places of interest including a lake, a monastery and Chinggis Khan’s birthplace. There are some mountains, but foreigners are forbidden to climb them as they are considered holy. So, grass, grass and more grass it is.

What to Pack

Clothes: Packs for all temperatures. Even in summer, if you are staying in or near valleys or more North, it’s going to get pretty cold at night- like 3-4 layers worth. In the summer, the Gobi gets pretty hot during the day and other places around the country are pleasant for T-shirt weather. Also, you do not need to dress to impress. Practical and comfy clothes are most appropriate for the long drives and physical activity.

Wet Wipes: Wet wipes will be your best friend on your trip. At Ger camps and home stays they do not have sinks, toilets or showers. Your toilet will simply be a long-drop hole with a small gap between 2 planks of wood to do your business.

Anti-bac: As mentioned above, no sinks to wash your hands.

Toilet Paper: Unfortunately those classy long drop toilets don’t have toilet paper so you need your own. Of all the countries I’ve been to, these are probably the worst I’ve seen. You’ll also likely be stopping off in random places to go behind a rock or a hill during those long drives!

Headlamp: These are extremely useful for those late night trips to the can, or early morning treks to see the sunrise.

Books and Music: Books are great for passing the time. You can read that epic you’ve been wanting to for years. Although I found it very frustrating to read on the bumpy unpaved roads. However, there will be much down time as well when your at the Gers. Music is really great for pensively staring out the car window and feeling the wind on your face, and obviously for making those long drives feel a little less long.

Battery pack: Although not necessary for shorter trips I think, this can be useful for long trips when you still want to take pictures and need to charge your camera. That’s right, 99% of the time, there will be no plug sockets for charging.